How and when should I plant a tree?
Plant in fall or early spring, in a hole 2–3 times the root ball width and no deeper than the root ball, with the root flare at or slightly above grade. Remove wire and burlap, backfill with native soil, water about 10 gallons per inch of trunk diameter per week for 1–2 years, mulch 2–4 inches, and do not fertilize.
Most trees that die in their first five years were killed at planting: too deep, in a hole too narrow, still wrapped in wire and burlap, too close to the house, and then fed fertilizer instead of water. None of that is hard to avoid. The order is right tree, right place, right depth, then water.
| Decision | Rule | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Season | Fall or early spring | Roots grow in cool moist soil with no leaves to support |
| Distance from house | Large trees at least 15–20 ft; small ornamentals 8–10 ft | Canopy should not overhang the roof |
| Hole width | 2–3 times the root ball width | Loosened soil for roots to spread into |
| Hole depth | No deeper than the root ball | Tree sits on firm soil and does not sink |
| Root flare | At or slightly above grade | Buried flare rots bark and grows girdling roots |
| Wire, burlap, twine | Remove all you can reach | Wire and twine girdle; burlap sheds water |
| Backfill | Native soil, no amendments | Amended holes hold water and trap roots |
| Water | About 10 gallons per inch of trunk diameter per week for 1–2 years | All the roots are in the ball for the first year |
| Mulch | 2–4 inches, 3–6 inches off the trunk | Holds moisture |
| Fertilizer | None the first year | Burns new roots; soil test ($15–$30) if in doubt |
How do I plant a tree, step by step?
- Pick the right tree for the spot. Match mature height and spread, not pot size, to the sun, drainage, and space. Keep large trees at least 15–20 ft from the house, clear of overhead lines, and 3 ft or more from pavement. Call 811 to have utilities marked.
- Find the root flare. Nursery trees often have soil piled over the flare. Pull it off until the trunk widens into the first roots. Measure flare to bottom of ball; that is the hole depth.
- Dig a wide, shallow hole. 2–3 times the width of the root ball and no deeper than your measurement. Scuff the sides; leave the bottom firm.
- Set the tree and remove the packaging. Flare at or slightly above grade, checked for plumb from two sides. Cut off the wire basket, twine, and all the burlap you can reach. On a container tree, slice through circling roots and spread them.
- Backfill with native soil and water. Use the soil you dug out, firmed gently by hand. Water slowly until it settles, then build the mulch ring: 2–4 inches deep, 3–6 inches off the trunk, at least 3 ft across.
- Water for 1–2 years and stake only if needed. About 10 gallons per inch of trunk diameter per week, poured slowly on the ball, for the first 1–2 growing seasons. If the tree flops, two stakes and a loose soft strap, removed after one season. Do not fertilize.
When is the best time to plant a tree?
Fall, in most of the country. From leaf drop until the ground freezes, soil is still warm, rain is more reliable, and the tree has no leaves demanding water, so it spends the season growing roots. Early spring, before buds open, is a close second. Summer planting works only if watering never slips. In the Deep South and Southwest, fall through winter is planting season. Evergreens go in early fall or spring rather than late fall.
How far from the house should I plant a tree?
Far enough that the mature canopy does not overhang the roof and the roots have somewhere to go. For large shade trees such as oak, maple, and elm, that is at least 15–20 ft from the foundation, farther on clay or for thirsty species like willow and silver maple. Small ornamentals such as dogwood, redbud, and crabapple are fine 8–10 ft out. Roots typically extend 1–3 times the canopy radius, so keep trees 3 ft or more from pavement. Anything that will top 25 ft should be well clear of overhead lines. Why the distances matter is on are tree roots damaging my foundation or pipes? If you are replanting where a tree was removed, wait about 1 year after grinding or plant 3 ft away; see can I plant where a stump was ground?
How deep should I dig the hole?
No deeper than the root ball, measured from the flare, and 2–3 times as wide. Depth matters because a tree set on loose backfill sinks and ends up with its flare buried, the most common planting mistake: bark below grade stays wet and rots, and roots grow up toward the surface, circle the trunk, and girdle it. When in doubt, plant an inch high. A tree slightly high can be mulched; a tree planted deep cannot be fixed without digging it up.
Should I stake a new tree?
Only when it needs it. A tree with a solid root ball that stands upright after watering needs no stake, and trunk movement in wind is what builds a strong trunk. Stake when the ball is loose, the site is windy, or the tree is top-heavy: two stakes outside the root ball and a wide, soft strap low on the trunk, loose enough to sway, removed after one growing season. Young trees also need structural pruning every 1–2 years for the first 5–10 years, covered on how do I prune a young tree?
Should I fertilize a newly planted tree?
No. For the first year the tree has almost no roots outside the ball, so fertilizer is not taken up, and its salts can burn the fine roots the tree does have. The same goes for compost in the hole, which holds water like a bucket in heavy soil. The tree needs water, a mulch ring, and time. If you are worried about the soil, a test through your state extension lab costs $15–$30. The whole question is on do trees need fertilizer?
No independently confirmed professional review is on file yet.
Not yet independently reviewed. Figures are typical US ranges for planning purposes, not quotes.